Newark-on-Trent could soon be Newark-on-sea if the black tidal line on maps, currently to North Muskam or Sutton-on-trent, shifts upstream. Once on the A1 road the town has an elemental square. The strongly flooding Trent laps the castle walls. There are no crossings north of here as the river meanders north to Sutton-on-trent. Deep inland is Rampton, possibly best forgotten. Roman roads dissect the river but the fords and ferries are left only in place names. On the Wolds are tens of disused airfields. Gainsborough is then reached: A wealthy-ish town still orientated towards the river. The town has two railway stations with a choice of returning via Sheffield, Doncaster, Retford, Worksop, Grantham and Lincoln.